yarn-numbering-system-yarn-count-direct

Yarn Count:
Count is a numerical value, which express the coarseness or fineness (diameter) of the yarn and also indicate the relationship between length and weight(the mass per unit length or the length per unit mass)of that yarn. Therefore, the concept of yarn count has been introduced which specifies a certain ratio of length to weight.

The fineness of the yarn is usually expressed in terms of its linear density or count. There are a number of systems and units for expressing yarn fineness. But they are classified as follows .

Types of Yarn Count: 
1. Direct Count System

2. Indirect Count System
1. Direct Count System:
The weight of a fixed length of yarn is determined. The weight per unit length is the yarn count! The common features of aII direct count systems are the length of yarn is fixed and the weight of yarn varies according to its fineness.

The following formula is used to calculate the yarn count:

N= (W×l) / L

Where, 

N =Yarn count or numbering system
W =Weight of the sample at the official regain in the unit of the system
L=Length of the sample
l=Unit of length of the sample 

 

In brief, definition of the above Systems is as follows

1. Tex system ..........................NO. of grams per 1000 meters
2. Denier .................................No. of Grams per 9000 meters
3. Deci Tex ..............................No. of grams per 10,000 metres
4. Millitex ................................No. of milligrams per 1000 metres
5. Kilotex............................... .No. of kilograms per 1000 metres.
6. Jute count........................No. of lb per 14,400 yds

The Tex of a yarn indicates the weight in grammes of 1000 metres yarn. So that 40Tex means 1000 meters of yarn weigh 40gm.

From above discussion it is concluded that, higher the yarn number(count) coarser the yarn and lower the number finer the yarn.

2. Indirect Count System: 
The length of a fixed weight of yarn is measured. The length per unit weight is the yarn count. The common features of all indirect count systems are the weight of yarn is fixed and the Length of yarn varies according to its fineness.

The following formula is used to calculate they are count:

N = (L×w) / W×l

Where, 

N =Yarn count or numbering system
W =Weight of the sample at the official regain in the unit of the system
L=Length of the sample
l=Unit of length of the sample
w = Unit of weight of the sample. 

 

1. Ne: No of 840 yards yarn weighing in One pound

2. Nm: No of one kilometer yarn weighing in One Kilogram

The Ne indicate show many hanks of 840 yards length weigh one English pound. So that 32 Ne Means 32 hanks of 840yards i.e.32x840 yards length weigh one pound.

For the determination of the count of yarn, it is necessary to determine the weight of a known length of the yarn. For taking out known lengths of yarns, a wrap-reel is used. The length of yarn reeled off depends upon the count system used. One of the most important requirements for a spinner is to maintain the average count and count variation within control.

Yarn Count Variation: 
The term count variation is generally used to express variation in the weight of a lea and this is expressed as C.V.%. The number of samples and the length being considered for count checking affects this. While assessing count variation, it is very important to test adequate number of leas. After reeling the appropriate length of yarn, the yarn is conditioned in the standard atmosphere for testing before it's weight is determined. 

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Type of fabrics

Fabric Types

Fabrics are manufactured from various raw-materials which are available from nature or artificially generated or mix of both. Fabrics can be classified based on the origin of fibers and its processes or its end usage. Natural fabrics are those which are created from the fibers of animals coats, the cocoons of silkworms, and plants seeds, leaves and stems. It is breathable and never cause rashes apart from being soft and durable. Natural fabric is the best choice for everyone. It does not change color from UV light and there is no warming until the material looses its tensile strength. Synthetic or man-made fabrics are made from fibers which are either completely made from inorganic materials or organic materials combined with chemicals. Synthetic fabrics have numerous properties with the purpose for which it is produced and finished. Some are lightweight with ultra sheer while others are moisture wicking and fast drying. Few are very luxurious to imitate some other natural fabrics and some are very strong and tough.

 

Fabrics from Man-made Fibers

Acetate Fabric Made from the cellulose and obtained by reconstructing cotton or wood pulp, Acetate fabric is resistant to shrinkage, moth and mildew. Acetate fabric is fabric which gives extremely soft and luxurious look just like silk fabric. Chiffon Fabric Chiffon basically refers to a light plain woven sheer fabric with a soft drape. Chiffon fabric can be manufactured using different fibers like silk or synthetic, cotton etc. but chiffon is generally associated with fibers like nylon or silk. Chiffon fabric can easily be dyed in contrast to any desired shade. Chiffon is used for bridal gowns and also appears in evening dresses, prom dresses, and scarves. Chiffon can be made using various materials like silk, polyester, or rayon. Chiffon fabric is a classic choice for manufacturing blouses and various types of dresses. Chiffon fabric adds a magical look to the dress and wearer's personality. Acrylic Fabric Acrylic fabrics is a kind of the synthetic fibre that is artificially manufactured. Acrylic fabrics can also be referred as the imitation of wool. Acrylic fabrics is used to make loads of apparels and many other things. The main use of the Acrylic fabrics is in outfits like shirts and many other ladies outfits. Also, Acrylic fabrics is used in seats of chairs and sofas as well. Acrylic fabrics are known for their stiffness and ability of wear and tear resistance. Acrylic also does not losses the glaze for a longer period of time. Acrylic fabrics is available mainly in two forms that are 'Courtelle' and 'Orlon'. These fabrics are known for their durability and especially ?Orlon? is reckoned for its light weightiness. These kinds of Acrylic fabrics serve plenty of option in shapes and designs. In the market, there are several manufacturers and suppliers in the business of the Acrylic fabrics. That shows the popularity of Acrylic fabrics amidst masses. People prefer the Acrylic fabrics as they are available at the low rates than any other fabrics. In addition, these fibers are wear resistant stays for longer period of time. Acrylic fabrics is the finest example of the invention of the mankind in the fabric industry. And thence is looked up with a great value of pride when put on. Organza Fabric Organza basically refers to a thin, plain weave, a sheer fabric which is made out of continuous filament of silk yarn worms. In modern fashion era many organzas are woven with synthetic filament fibers like nylon and polyester but most of the stylish organzas are woven in silk. The most popular item made of organza fabric are bags. Various designs and shapes of organza fabric bags are attracting people towards them. Adding a nice touch with sophistication and uniqueness Organza fabric is the choice of millions. Lastex Fabric Lastex fabric basically refers to an elastic fiber that is made from Latex. Moreover, lastex fabric is used with other complex fibers with a intent to made different fabrics like spandex and foundation garments. Nylon Fabric The term nylon is derived from the New York and London. Nylon is yet another form of synthetic fibre that is commonly used amidst the masses. Fabric composed of nylon, called nylon fibre is used in variety of uses like clothing, sheets, covers, and many other domestic and industrial appliances. Nylon fabric is preferred amidst all other fabrics as it is really strong and has a strong ability of stretchiness. High elasticity of nylon fabrics makes it prime use in like of luggage baggage, wallets and many more. In addition, nylon fabrics are easy to maintain as gets cleaned and dried without any special effort. Nylon Fabrics are availed in the latest forms that are much more stiff and lighter in weight. Since it is highly durable, nylon fabric makes the cloth or the other long lasting and wears and tears resistant. Nylon is the polymer of amide, termed as polyamide extracted from the petroleum. Nylon is an easy product to manufacture as it needs less time and also lesser attention. That is indeed makes nylon fabrics a nice product to trade and make money. The increasing uses and popularity of Nylon fabrics have made the finest product to trade Velvet Fabric Velvet is one of the smoothest and softest amidst all the other kinds of fabrics. Velvets are specially manufactured and process because of its distinctive properties. Velvet fabrics are used in variety of appliances like clothing including trousers, shirts, and many more. Also, velvet fabric is used in bed sheets, covers, curtains and etc. Velvet fabric is no less than silk in any assessments whether be glossiness or be the unending glaze. Velvet fabric, due to its high class looks and price viability has made it the most preferred fabrics. In the modern times, velvet fabrics are availed in the multifarious designs and colors. And also are stronger and elastic than the previous times. The newer velvet fabrics needs less maintenance and can be easily washed and dried. Use of modern innovations in the composition of the velvet fabrics have made it more easily accessible to the common masses. Today in the market, there are numerous brands for velvet fabrics, and many more are too coming. With the healthy competition in the market, brands are offering new designs and colors for the velvet fabrics and that too at the least rates. That is why; market considers the velvet fabrics industry safer and secure place for investment Polyester Fabric Polyester is a type of fabric that is not found naturally. The polyester fabric is man made. The polyester fabric is widely used in various applications and is very much in demand in markets. This fabric has various qualities due to those it is so popular like wrinkle resistance and springing back into its smooth shape. The polyester fabric is very strong and soft as well. The polyester fabric can also be mixed with other fabrics to make a strong and durable fabric or to achieve any other motive. For example, In upholstery, polyester is generally blended with wool to eliminate crushing and reduce fading. There are various uses of polyester fabric like it is used in casement curtains, draperies, floor coverings, throw rugs, bedding, and as a cushioning or insulating material. Taffeta Fabric Taffeta fabric is a crisp, soft and smooth plain woven fabric which with its slight sheen manufactured out of different fibers like rayon, silk or nylon. Taffeta fabric is widely used in manufacturing of women's garments. The taffeta fabric has a unique rippled or wavy pattern which exhibits similarity to a water stain or mark, with dull and lustrous areas that reflect light differently. The word 'Taffeta' has its origin from Persia, and means "twisted woven". It is generally made with a plain weave, fine warp yarns and heavier filling yarns. A good quality taffeta fabric represents the artwork in optimum manner. Denim Fabric Denim fabric is a rugged cotton twill. In denim fabric the weft passes under two or more than two warp fibers that produces the common diagonal ribbing which is identifiable on the back of the fabric. The diagonal ribbing separates the existence of denim fabric from cotton duck. The denim fabric is generally colored with indigo dye to create blue jeans though jean denoted a distinct lighter cotton textile. Denim fabric is used at a large scale all over the world economies. Its vivid texture and ability to provide extreme comfort makes it one of demanding fashion entities all over. With blissful shopping experience, people are moving toward more purchasing new innovative designs of denim fabric. Rayon Fabric Rayon fabric is basically that synthetic textile fiber which is obtained by forcing a cellulose solution through fine spinnerets. In other words, rayon fabric is a final result of solidifying filaments. Rayon is a unique type of fabric that cannot be termed either a synthetic fabric or natural one. The process of making rayon is quite distinct; through which natural raw supplies are transformed to make it practical. Rayon is a fabric that can be woven or knit; further ensuring a versatile use. The efficiency of rayon fabric is comparatively much higher than taffeta or other cotton fabric. It is economical too. Apart from this, its soft texture makes rayon one of the most lovable fabrics. Rayon fabric is widely used in making of number of apparels and home furnishing items. Spandex Fabric Because of its great shape retention quality, spandex fabric is widely used as fashion fabric. The important point to note about spandex fabric is that it bounce back to its original structure even after stretching up to 600 times. Highly durable superior strength spandex fabric is resistant to dry heat and oil. Providing great comfort and flexibility it does not put on weight on the body of the wearer. With the characteristics like elasticity, retaining back to original shape, resistance to dry heat and abrasion, spandex fabric feel and fits better when blended and of course make one look better. With its great shape retention qualities, spandex is used in making undergarments and support hose. It creates a less confined feel and becomes more stronger and versatile piece of clothing. Providing resistance to perspiration and body oils spandex fabric is more stable and durable. Georgette Fabric Georgette is a sheer and strong silk or silk like clothing fabric that often comes with a dull, creped surface. In simple words, it is a sheer lightweight fabric that provides utmost comfort. This is fabric is usually made out of silk or polyester. As compared to chiffon, it is opaque and slightly heavy. If it comes to least expensive and much practical fabric then a large number of couture prefers georgette. Due to its exquisiteness and uniqueness, a georgette fabric proves a demanding item in the fashion industry. Viscose Fabric Since its invention, viscose is widely used for coating fabric. Its development with the passage of time has led to viscose being spun into thread for embroidery and trimmings. As the further development take place, viscose had entirely replaced the old wool and cotton and its being widely used for women's stocking and underwear. Due to its perishable nature, viscose is often refused to be used in the manufacturing of solid objects like umbrella handles etc. Nowadays, viscose fabric is widely used for lining and furnishing because it provides the staple for towels and table-cloths. Grey fabric Fabric Due to its cost effectiveness, exquisiteness and longevity, grey fabric has been widely used for cloth manufacturing. Uniquely woven grey fabric has become increasingly popular in appreciation of increased market demand. Clothes made out of grey fabric can simply be termed as stunning in each and every aspect. Showcasing immense aesthetics and revealing a tendency of glamor, clothes made using grey fabric are ruling the international market. A blissful shopping could be conducted with the availability of different textures, finishes and sizes of grey fabric. Polypropylene Fabric Polypropylene fabric is especially meant for winter seasons, because the only layer of hundred per cent polypropylene rib knit generally stays dry and due to this feature it keeps one's body warmer. A high quality lightweight polypropylene fabric is preferred in winter season because it is allows user to perform any moderate activity in cold weather at ease. Polypropylene fabric basically consists of hydrophobic which relinquishes any possibility of moisture in such fabric and further its pushes the moisture vapor away from the skin. Entailing a large number of features, polypropylene fabric can simply be termed stunning in each and every aspect. Satin Fabric Satin fabric is also said to be the most elegant fabrics. The reason behind is its astonishing looks and smooth surface. Satin fabric is used in loads of apparels and many others things. Especially for women, satin fabric is used in variety of apparels like blouse, panties, gowns, and many more clothing. Also, satin fabric is used for bed sheets, curtains and many other decorative purposes. The glossiness of the satin fabric really makes the material high class. At top of that, satin fabric is availed in multifarious color options like black, red, green, purple, blue and etc. Satin fabric is generally composed of silk or rayon and that is why it is so smooth. Also, satin fabrics are availed in various weights and normally are very light. Also, satin are very delicate and are manufactured with a great deal of care and attention. Satin fabrics needs a fine set up of manufacturing and processing unit as each and every strand of the satin fabric must be well knitted. Satin fabric s huge demand amidst the masses is not a new thing as has been the most demanded fabric since a long time. In the present too, with the innovative designer apparels, satin fabric usability range has expanded like never before.

 

Fabrics for Special Uses

Industrial Fabric Industrial fabric is a fabric which is usually made from man-made fibers like fiberglass, carbon, and aramid fibers. It covers a wide variety of widths, weights and construction particularly made to meet a specific application. Industrial fabric are used for decorative purposes. Industrial fabric is woven in various thicknesses and constructions in basic weave, namely plain, leno, satin,basket etc. It is primarily used for filtration, marine and recreational products, insulation,electronics, commercial & construction and protective garments etc. Fiberglass Fabric Fiberglass is a material that generally consists of extremely fine glass fibers and often used in manufacturing different products like fabric, yarns, insulators and structural objects. Filter Fabric A filter fabric is well known for its functionality and longevity. However a filter fabric is known for its high temperature and chemical resistance. Carbon Fabric Carbon fabric is generally used in different applications such as Brake linings, Aircraft interiors, Windmill blades, Tooling, Primary and secondary structures, Racing helmets and so on. Widely used in aerospace application, carbon fabric provides maximum degree of stiffness in aircrafts. An exquisitely created carbon fabric is well known for its light weight and hight strength. A carbon fabric is also characterized by different types of features such as Fire resistant, Dimensionally stable, Lightweight, High strength etc. Vinyl Fabric It is well observed that a large number of vinyl fabrics satin and spot resistant. Vinyls fabric is generally created with ultraviolet stabilized pigments and this segment proves much crucial if one's application regarding vinyl fabric involves direct exposure to sunlight. Plain Fabric Plain fabrics are well known for their soberness and long lasting durability. Clothing made our of plain fabric can simply be termed as the most impressive and exclusive range of clothing available today. With the available different varieties of plain fabric, the choice is endless. Plain fabrics are also well known for their durability and cost effectiveness. The clothing made using plain fabric is totally capable of impressing absolute anybody with its unique qualities and aesthetic appeal. A quality that along with its comfort, palin fabric clothes are extremely popular for leisure wear. Among the vast accumulation of available fabric, plain fabric is most popular fabric. Blended Fabric Blended Fabrics are the compositions of the strands extracted either from natural resources or artificially by treating chemicals. There are several kinds of fabric like synthetic fabric, natural fabric and many others. Blended fabric is the special form of the fabrics that constitutes two or more elements properties. The specialty of the blended fabric is that it is different in the composition and looks. Also, blended fabric is stiffer and resistant to any kind of depreciation by any means. There are many forms of the blended fabrics, lets have a look on them Silk blended fabric: Silk in the blended fabric makes it astonishing in looks and style. It raises the standards of the blended fabrics. Also, silk blended fabrics are known for their smoothness and nonpareil high quality. Jute blended fabric: jute is the finest example of the stiffness and durability. Hence the jute blended fabric is also stiffer and sustains the high quality for a longer period of the time. Also, jute blended fabric is used in various purposes as the fabric is capable of holding any kind of weight. Apart from the above there are several kinds of the blended fabric. Blended fabrics are scientifically approved and found appropriate for any kind of usability. PTFE Fabric A PTFE fabric is well renowned for its excellent non-stick surface that allows user to carry his work smoothly and efficiently. It is well observed that a PTFE fabric is resistant to tears and abrasions. Long lasting durable, PTFE fabric remains stagnant even at high temperatures. PTFE fabric is resistant from chemical, corrosion, and moisture. The uniqueness and exquisiteness of PTFE fabric capable of impressing absolutely anybody. A high quality PTFE fabric has gained immense popularity in appreciation of increased market demand. Crewel Fabric A wide range of crewel fabric come from Kashmir in north-western India. Because of its versatility, a crewel fabric is widely used for the manufacturing of curtains, light upholstery, bedheads, cushions and bed covers and so on. Due to its longevity, exquisiteness and with its aesthetic appeal, crewel fabric has been ruling the international market. The availability of crewel fabric in subtle lustrous color and rich texture makes it one of the most demanding items. A crewel fabric possess the capability to complement various types of body tones. Stretch Fabric Stretch fabric is a fabric referring to the normal fabric, which stretches in all four directions. Simplifying the construction of clothing stretches fabrics are commonly used in swimsuits. They were originally being used in the mid 1980s by large number of fashion designers. Entering mainstream market in the early 1990, Stretch fabrics are widely used in sports wear. Sometimes Stretch fabric is also termed as Stretch woven fabric when it is blended with stable fiber of cotton, wool or synthetic. When it comes to talk about stretching, then Stretch fabric is very easy to Stretch in one or both directions presenting the traditional look and lot of comfort. Stretch fabric have better shape retention and are wrinkle resistance because of which they are more comfortable to wear. Reflective Fabric Reflective fabric is the nicest instance of the expanded usability of the fabrics. This has been all possible just because of the continuous innovation in the science field. Reflective fabric is known for their ability to reflect the light to the farthest distance possible. That is why; reflective fabric is used in countless usability, few of them are listed below: In the streets: - the reflectors and the alerts are made up of the reflective fabric. It is generally red in color as red has the largest ability to reflect. Also, it can be visible from the very long distance that makes the traffic flow smoothly. Especially in the night vision, reflective fabrics are proven to be the boon. Security- life jackets are made by the reflective fabrics. Also, other apparels are made by the reflective fabrics. Reflective fabrics help in notify the person in the crowd or any kind of situations. Coast guards and even police sometimes have their dresses made up of the reflective life jackets. There are many other numerous usability of the reflective fibers, making it the finest fabrics that are great in durability and usability as well. Quilted Fabric Quilting is the art of covering the fabrics for frontal and back, both the sides. The fabrics composed by the sides are generally said to be the quilting fabric. Quilted fabrics are generally made for products like bags, clothing and mattresses. Quilted fabrics can blend any of the material like cotton, polyesters, silk and many more including the wool. Quilted fabrics have been in the daily uses since ages. With the time, quilted fabric has been innovated and modernized in its composition and designs as well. Quilted fabric is also available in countless colors and shapes. Especially, the variety in the quilted fabric can be witnessed in the jackets and mattresses. Quilted fabric is now the new status symbol, as masses take a great matter of pride in owning. Apart from the glaze and astounding looks, other reasons of the popularity of the quilted fabric are its unlimited usability. Quilted fabrics are soft in nature and hence can be threaded easily. Also, needs less maintenance, as is easily washable and dryable. The quilted fabrics can sustain the original high quality for the longer period of time than nay other fabrics availed in the market. At top of that, luxurious looking quilted fabric is priced at the most affordable rates for the common people. Polyethylene Fabric Polyethylene fabric is a distinct fabric that is highly acclaimed in the domestic and industrial sectors. Polyethylene fabric is known for its unmatchable density and strength that is superior to all others. Polyethylene fabric is a type of a synthetic fabric that is manufactured in the labs. The polymerizing the ethylene results in the stiffer product called polyethylene that is later used for the fabric. Polyethylene fabric is used for loads of purposes: Domestic-polyethylene fabric is the finest replacement of the traditional fabrics for all kinds of bags. Polyethylene fabric is able to hold a lot more weight than previous ones. People like it as is very light and is wear and tear resistant. Also, it is highly elastic that makes it stretchy. It is used in various toys like jumping pads. Industrial-polyethylene fabric is used for machineries. Also, the tough woven fabric is used in the industries at the large scale. The newest technology in the polyethylene fabric has enhanced the usability of the fabric, like in manufacturing and packaging units. Polyethylene fabric has many more purposes than above. That s why in the market, the demand of the polyethylene fabric is climbing day by day. Narrow Fabric Fabrics are something that we daily come across. With the clothing to the seats, the fabrics are the integral part of the lives. There are several sorts of the fabrics like synthetic fabrics, natural fabrics and many more depending upon their designs and usability. Narrow fabric is also the most commonly utilized fabrics in our daily lives. Narrow fabrics are the thicker version of the fabrics as its strands are thicker and stronger. That is why; narrow strands are used in the things that are used for heavy duties. The narrow fabric is availed in mainly in the following forms: Laces- laces are used in shoes and many other tying purposes. Narrow fabrics in the laces make it strong and easy to grip on. In the recent times, there has been a revolution in the designs and shapes of the laces composed of narrow fabric. Now, laces, like ropes are commonly used in the daily appliances. Tapes- narrow fabrics are used to make the tapes. These tapes are great in appearance and stiff in the quality. These tapes are used for wrapping, decorating and many other purposes. In the modern times, the usability of the narrow fabric has grown as it is light and has a splendid durability. That is why; narrow fabrics are hugely demanded in the global marketplace Laminated Fabric Sometimes the apparels, bags, beds are needed to be protected from the dust and other outer particles. This can be carried out through the laminated fabric, used to laminate all kind of clothing, sheets, covers, hand bags and many more. Laminated fabric safeguards the core thing from any kind of external particles that hampers the quality and the glaze. Lamination is carried our by the covering the material with the protective film on all the sides. That does not let water to pass through, making the material completely safe. However it is not completely air tight as moisture is allowed to let in the for the longer life of the fabrics. Laminated fabric adds the durability and sustains the quality. In the recent developments, laminated fabric designs and shapes have been transformed with the undue assistance of the modern tools and techniques. Also, people have shown a great deal of zeal in the laminate fabrics because of its astounding glossiness and superior style. Today, laminated fabric is one of the prime fabrics used for the decoration and giving the interior a luxurious touch. In addition, the availability of the newest kind of the laminated fabric and those too at the most affordable prices has made it own by anyone Flocked Fabric Flocked fabrics are the fabrics composed of several fabrics. The combination of different elements makes the flocked fabric inherit all the nicest properties of them. The flocked fabric is greatly demanded in domestic and international market both making it the most money making fabric in the fabric industry. Flocked fabrics are manufactured and traded by the loads of the people as it is one of the fabrics that's demand is rising day and night. Also, the attractive offers for flocked fabrics have made consumers to make most of the profit. The reason behind such a reputable fame is its unending usability. Flocked fabric is used in clothing of all kinds and also in many others purposes as well. Flocked fabrics are used in shirts, pants, trousers, inner garments and etc. in addition is used in laces and as other packaging threads as well. Flocked fabrics are known for their extraordinary gripping capabilities and since are the finest material to carve shoes or others. In seats, carpets, the flocked fabric is the best component as it is resistible all kinds of tribulations. Flocked fabric is availed in loads of nonpareil designs and shapes and can be shaped in any kind of moulds easily Flame Resistant Fabric Fire and many other casualties are very common in the daily lives. That is why people prefer fabrics that are flame resistible. The concept of the flame resistant fabric was possible due to the long research and experiments in the labs for several years. The first priority of the flame resistant fabric is that it should be convenient for the user. That means it should neither be too heavy nor too thin. Also, it should have a nice look that attracts the user. The good news is that such a high quality flame resistant fabric is now easily available. The latest flame resistant fabric is simply superb in fa ade and has the longest durability. Flame resistant fabric is used in variety of apparel and many others like curtains, sheets and many more. The flame resistant fabric is composed of chemicals and other components that make it easily hold in any amount of heat and flame. Also, does not loose the glaze or the quality level for a longer period of time. With the awareness in the masses, flame resistant fabric is becoming globally apt clothing and for many other usability. Also, with the pleasant intrusion of the big brands in the flame resistant fabric, has made it the latest trend amidst masses especially younger generation.

 

Fabrics from Natural Fibers

Cotton Fabric The fabric which is believed to be most soothing and safe is called as cotton fabric. Immense use of cotton fabric for infant s dresses or beddings is a live testimony of its softness and skin-friendliness. Cotton fabric has a distinctive feature that it adjusts easily with climatic requirements that is why it is called all-season fabric. In summer season cotton fabric keeps the body cool and absorbs the sweat easily whereas they give a warm feel if worn in winder season. Silk Fabric Silk counts to the strongest natural fabric in the world. Known for its softness, luster, beauty and luxurious look, silk fabric is one of the higher grade fabric providing comfort to the wearer in all types of weather. Keeping the body cool in summer and warm in winter, silk was discovered during 2640 B.C. in china. Today there are different variety of silk available in the market like Chiffon, Georgette, Organza, Crepe de Chine, Duponi, Noil, Pongee, Shantung, Tussar, etc. Because of its sheer variety of designs, weaving and quality, Indian silk textile are popular worldwide. Silk fabric is mainly used for making luxurious and expensive dresses and home furnishings. Indian silk textile is popular worldwide whereas USA is the worlds leading manufacturer of silk products with France and Italy are also involved in the same line producing high value sophisticated silk fabrics in Europe. Linen Fabric Linen is called as king of natural fabric. Linen is extensively used for apparel making and home furnishing as well. Linen, being a natural fiber is considered to be safe for all types of skin. Linen fabric is also suggested for sensitive skin as its natural properties makes it resistant for allergies. Linen fabric do not cause problems like irritation, allergic reaction etc. The natural fiber of linen makes it strong and durable. Linen is an easy maintainable fabric. No special treatments are required for linen; it can be simply washed by hands. Although linen is used for all kinds of clothing, yet mostly used for home furnishing items like table cloth, bedspreads, curtains etc Wool Fabric Soft, strong and very durable wool fabric provide warmth and attractive appearance. It is the fabric which keeps the wearer dry while sweating and cool when it is hot. Wicking away perspiration from the body, wool fabric does not wrinkle easily and is resistant to dirt wear and tear. It is also having the quality of not burning when put over the flame, it only smolder. Felt made of wool fabric is used as covers for piano hammers. It is also used in absorbing odors and noise in machinery and stereo speakers. Wool fabric is being used for clothing for over twelve thousand years does not only come from sheep only, whereas widely used kashmiri sweaters are made from goats. Wool fabric is equipped with different characteristics like warm, resists to wrinkle, wear and tear, it is light weight and durable which also absorbs moisture. Have been largely used in blankets and carpets, today almost every wardrobe contains garment made of woolen fabric. Leather Fabric Comfortable in both hot and cold condition, leather fabric is not affected by surrounding temperature. Adding a classic luxury, pleasant to touch and comfortable, leather fabric is soft , elastic and firm. Leather fabric is blessed with the quality of absorbing water vapor without loosing dryness and retaining to the original shape when stretched. Ramie Fabric Ramie fabric having characteristics like moisture absorption, air permeability are valued as a summer fabric which are not harmed by mild acid and are resistant to alkali. Hemp Fabric Highly versatile hemp fabric is used in countless number of products like shoes, furniture, apparel, accessories and home furnishing. Hemp fabric is a fabric which is commonly known for its warmth, softness and durability. Providing beautiful lusture, hemp fabric is best for making apparel which can withstand harsh conditions and last longer. UV protected apparel fabric have an insulative quality that allows clothing to be cool in summer. Having characteristics like durability, absorption, insulation, apparel fabric withstand water better then any other textile product. It is obtained from stem of the plant, the finest hemp fabric is produced in Italy. Acting as a great choice for comfortable work clothes, home decoration, hemp fabric is also used in the manufacturing of clothing, curtains, draperies, upholstery, bedspreads, table linens, sheets, dish towels, canvas, etc. Jute Fabric Being among the strong and durable fabric, jute fabric is ideally being used as bags or sacks for packing since aging. The jute fabric is much soughed item for fashionable clothes, home furnishing and fashion accessories. Bangladesh counts to the largest cultivator of jute fabric with India as the second largest jute goods manufacturer. The most important use of the jute fabric is in the manufacturing of carpets, linoleum, cordage and twines. It is sometimes used as webbing to cover inner springs of the auto seats. Sometimes used as fashion accessory used for fashion garments, tapestries, soft luggage, etc.

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Embroidery Production Process

Embroidery Production Process

Punching and Sampling The sketch created by an embroidery designer is first enlarged by 6 times and traced manually, and the resulting drawing is posted on the digitizer of a special CAD system called gcomputer punching systemh. When the outlines of the shapes on the drawing are digitized by the use of a mouse, the system determines the locations of the stitching point by referring to pre-specified parameters such as stitch width, then translate them into machine interpretative pattern data which is output on to a floppy disk. This process is called gpunchingh which is an important element to determine the quality of embroidery. The data on the floppy is loaded into a sampling machine whose length ranges from 1 meter to 4 meters. The manufactured sample piece is shown to the customers for order.         Machine Embroidering (Production) Once the order is placed, embroidering begins on a 15-yard production machine. The machine is a large one with 18 meter length, 4.5 meter height ,and more than 1000 needles. Two pieces of base fabric are set vertically, one piece on the upper stage, the other on the lower. Thus two pieces of fabric, each with 13.7 meters length and 1.1 meter width can be embroidered at once. Since the introduction of computer numerical control, the positioning of the machine frame can be performed with higher speed and more accuracy.         Inspection, Mending, Shearing, Finishing The defects found upon close inspection will be mended by sewing machine. The floating thread is clipped by the shearing machine and sent to a dying factory to be finished.

Application of Embroidery

Party Dress Formal Dress Lingerie and Foundation home furnishing fabric automobile furnishing fabric

Embroidery Process Chart

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Important topic: Garment Costing

Introduction

Costing includes all the activities like purchase of raw materials and accessories, knitting fabrics, processing and finishing of fabrics, sewing and packing of garments, transport and conveyance, shipping, over heads, banking charges and commissions, etc. To do perfect garment costing, one must know about all these activities thoroughly about their costs, procedures, advantages and risk factors. Also he must know how to solve the problems when occurred and to take suitable alternate decision immediately in time. We must be aware that there are always fluctuations in the costs of raw materials and accessories, charges of knitting, processing, finishing, sewing and packing, charges of transport and conveyance. Hence we must have update knowledge about the latest prices and charges, latest procedures, methods and quality systems, market prices and availability, transportation (road, sea, air) and freight charges, etc. We must remember that the quality depends on price; price depends on quality. Each product will have different price according to its quality. We do not manufacture only one quality of garments. Also we manufacture the garments not only for one customer.While we do the garment costing, the customer’s price level, quality & quantity and payment terms, to be taken into consideration. There are two types of garments, namely woven and knitted garments. Shirt, trouser, sarees, bedspreads, blankets, towels and made ups are woven. T-shirts, sweaters, undergarments, pyjamas andsocks are knits.Costing is the deciding factor for fixing of prices and the important thing to follow in all stages like purchase, production, marketing, sales, etc. Also update knowledge about everything related togarments, is essential to make perfect costing.Costing includes all the activities like purchase of fabrics and accessories, processing and finishingof fabrics, sewing and packing of garments, transport and conveyance, shipping, over heads, bankingcharges and commissions, etc.We must be aware that there are always fluctuations in the costs of raw materials and accessories,charges of knitting, processing, finishing, sewing and packing, charges of transport and conveyance.The method of making costing will vary from style to style. As there are many different styles in garments.

Costing Essentials

The method of making costing will vary from style to style. As there are many different styles in garments, it is not possible here to discuss about all the styles. Hence let us take some following styles as examples which are in regular use. Men’s Basic T shirts, Men’s Printed Polo shirts, Ladies Night dress, Men’s Pyjamas, Men’s Solid Pique Polo shirts, Ladies yarn striped T shirts (Feeder stripes) Boys yarn striped T shirts (Engineering stripes) Based on these methods, costings can be made for other styles too. Let us see them in detail now. To make the garment costing, we have to find out following things. Fabric consumption. Gross weight of other components of garment. Fabric cost per kg. Fabric cost per garment. Other charges (print, embroidery, etc.) Cost of trims (labels, tags, badges, twill tapes, buttons, bows, etc.) CMT charges Cost of accessories (hangers, inner boards, polybags, cartons, etc) Cost of a garment. Price of a garment.

Costs to Consider

Direct cost: Cost of raw material -- 66%. Cost of size and chemicals - 4%. Production cost comprising of running the machine, maintenance, power fuel, humidification and other utilities -- 8 % and worker wages and salaries -- 8% losses incurred due to shrinkage, wastage, grading, and also selling commissions. Indirect cost : Interest on investment, loan, working capital, depreciation, etc. Above 7%, overheads and administrative expenses like travelling, telephone, couriers, legal issues, taxes comprising of 7%. Profit: 10 - 20% depending on the order size. In some companies, 70% of the fabric cost will comprise of direct cost, but in corporate selling only 40% cost of the fabric is direct cost and 60% is overheads.

Conclusion

There are set patterns and guidelines followed by the industry. It is difficult to find out costs for every process as there are some inbuilt costs while costing. A larger picture has been taken into account while quoting the cost. Costing depends a lot on quantity and order received. Indirect cost is about 15 - 20%. On top of the cost a profit of 15 - 20% is added. It is not only the cost of the final product that matters, for exports the cost is generally given as FAS, FOB, CIF and LDP. FAS (Free along Side) means: It is the cost of finished goods plus it includes the delivery of the goods to port, dock, etc. The price does not include loading into the ship, etc, or the shipping or any other charges incurred from that point on. FOB (Free on Board): It is the cost of finished goods, cost of delivery of the goods to port and loading onto the ship, plane, etc. The cost does not include the shipping or any other costs incurred from that point on. CIF (Cost Insurance and Freight): It includes the cost of finished goods plus it includes the delivery of the goods to the port, loading on the ship, shipping charges, all applicable insurance fees along the way. The price does not include going through customs or any duties or other costs incurred from that point. LDP (Landed & Duty Paid): It is the cost of the finished goods, plus it includes the delivery of the goods to port, loading on the ship, shipping charges and the goods brought through the customs with all applicable duties and taxes paid. Lead time plays an important part in the domestic and export market. Generally for production of greige fabric the lead time is 30 days. Processing time for grey fabric is 15 - 20 days but when the buyer needs something urgently then the above costing parameters sometimes are not significant; It depends on demand and supply.

Garment Product costing

How much does it cost to make a garment is something you have to know before you get too far in the process? It goes without saying, the simplest garments cost less to make. As styling details are added; pockets, fancy seaming, linings and trims etc, the cost of the finished garment will increase labor cost in production. If you have chosen an expensive fabric for one of your designs, it would be wise to keep the details to a minimum. Using expensive fabric and many styling details often makes the finished cost of the garment too high for the market which has been targeted. Now keep in mind, the cost the garment is information you will need from the factory. A simple formula is used to calculate the cost of the garment and looks like this: Costs of fabric + trims + labor + business overhead + profit = Garment Cost This is how a factory will calculate the cost of manufacturing each garment. For you as the small business, your overhead and all of your expenses such as design research, markdown sales losses, brand advertising, promotions, rent, and everything else that goes along with owning and running a business are deducted from the total revenue you generate per garment. After you deduct all of the expenses of running your business from the revenue you generate from the garments you make and sell, you are left with your profit. The cost of piece goods (fabric) is generally about one-third the initial production cost of a garment. For the small company, the margin and mark-up will be higher than for bigger mass-producing companies that have a lower margin and mark-up percentages due to the volume they manufacture. Ultimately, the final figures may be a subjective call of what the market will bear.

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